Many of the materials used in building a manufactured home are exactly the same as building a stick built home. In many cases the home is even overbuilt and built by people in an enclosed location protected by the elements, therefore doing a better job in initial construction.

Homes built over the past 20 years are more energy efficient, and are built with the home owner in mind. A well taken care of manufactured home can last for many years and in fact as long as a normal stick built home.

The majority of problems that arise in this style home are typical of any other home. It is neglect from the homeowner to take care of their place. No maintenance of the heating system, or water heater, ignoring small problems in the bathrooms, kitchen, around windows, doors, etc… Those small problems can be minor water leaks, air leakage, missing caulking, or weatherstripping.

Other problems arising are primarily deck or step issues. Again, poor maintenance by the homeowner.

Last, inspections of a manufactured home need to carefully examine the underside of the home. If on a basement foundation, then it is much easier to inspect. The majority of homes are on crawlspace foundations or on concrete slabs with piers placed every 8 to 10 inches. It is dirty work, but the inspector must crawl through this area and inspect it thoroughly, especially the piers, water supply, drain lines and electrical.

The other point to inspect while looking around under the home, is how the home is attached to the foundation or to the slab. It must be “tied down.” Financing might not be available if not tied down properly.

If you are purchasing these types of homes, a mobile home or manufactured home inspection is always recommended after submitting your purchase offer. Please don’t hesitate to call or email with any questions regarding your upcoming home purchase.

Before we discuss what you really need to know about radon in your home, keep these numbers in mind:  The United States uses as a threshold 4 pCi/L (picocuries / Liter).  Our Canadian friends use 20 pCi/L as theirs, and many other countries either have a number in between or nothing at all.

Radon’s presence in your home can pose a danger to your family’s health.  Radon is the leading cause of lung cancer among non-smokers.  While no level of radon gas is completely safe, as with most things in life we must balance the benefits and costs to find our own “acceptable” levels. We walk outside and work in the sun, exposing ourselves to ultraviolet radiation and increasing our risk of developing skin cancer. We drive in automobiles almost every day even though greater than 1 in 86 deaths is a result of automobile accidents. People smoke, eat poorly, and engage in dangerous behaviors on a daily basis. To some degree, radon gas is another daily risk that we all must take. However, you choose what you eat, whether or not you smoke, and how and when you drive.

The United States government at one time said that 5 to 10,000 deaths per year may be attributed to radon.  They did not say if those people were in poor health or smoked.  Today, the epa website claims that the number of deaths is closer to 20,000.  Before that number scares you, think of the number of accidents on the road per year and also remember that there are over 330 million people living in the USA.  The percentage for the 20,000 is now:  0.0061 percent.

Granted a safe level of radon is zero, but even the air that we breath has small amounts of radon in it.  The national average is 0.4 pCi/L and it is estimated by the National Academy of Sciences that outdoor radon levels cause approximately 800 of the 21,000 radon induced lung cancer deaths in the US each year.

Because you spend time in your home, the US epa uses 4.0 pCi/L as the threshold in which they recommend that a mitigation system be installed to remove as much as possible the radon found under the lower level.  This will normally lower the radon level to 2.0 pCi/L or less in the average house.

Note that at different times throughout the year the radon level in a home will vary.  Also if the home is drafty or you have windows and doors open then the level will quite different than when it is buttoned up.

One last comment about installing a radon mitigation system.  Many homes have very porious basements, such as, dirt or gravel floors, field stone foundations, cracked floors, etc.  If your house is similar, you may not be able to install a system, as the basement must be sealed to slow down the radon from entering your home.  Also, do not install a system in the corner of the basement, when yours’ is 20 by 60.  The fan will not draw anything from at least half of the house.

Check out these websites for additional information:

http://www.epa.gov/radon/

http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/phys_agents/radon.html

For Ithaca Radon Testing please give me a call.  We will discuss your needs and determine if a radon test is right for you, your home and your family. Thanks!

Examine the roofing material for damage and deterioration, possible leaks, damage and conditions that suggest limited remaining service life. Also, there should only be a maximum of 2 layers of shingles at any one time on a roof. Any more, and the weight could seriously damage the structure of the house. In many cases, when installing new shingles, the installer will remove even a single layer and properly seal the roof with proper membranes. More on this later. Last an inspection should look at the ventilation of a roof. In the majority of the houses, there should be lots of ventilation of the attic and it should be done properly. More on this in a blog on attics.

Only observing the roof from the outside is half of what needs to be done. Inspection of the underside also needs to be done from the attic area.
Chimney’s are a neglected portion of the house, and seem to be only maintained after they fall apart or leak. At that point the cost to fix is going to be quite high. Usually the main issue is the chimney cap which develops cracks and leaks. Also look around the flashing where a lot of leaks also occur.

Inspectors may offer opinions concerning repair and/or replacement if warranted. Opinions stated herein concerning the roofing material are based on the general condition of the roof system as evidence by our visual inspection. These do not constitute a warranty that the roof is or will remain, free of leaks.

All roofing systems require annual maintenance. Failure to perform routine maintenance will usually result in leaks and accelerated deterioration of the roof covering and flashings. When provided, our estimates of the roofs life expectancy are based on the assumption that the roof will be properly maintained during that period. The only way to determine whether a roof is absolutely watertight is to observe it during a prolonged rainfall. Many times, this situation is not present during the inspection and you cannot confirm this condition. We suggest that an annual inspection of the Attic area be performed where accessible to identify if any leaks are evident.

Although shingles are sold with statements that say that you’re buying a 25, 30, or 35 year shingle, it usually means that you’ll only get about 80 to 90 percent of that time frame out of them. There are homes that the shingles have lasted longer, and there are some that due to moisture, ventilation and improper installation they only lasted about half their expected life span. The new shingles over the past 5 to 10 years have vastly improved.

Minor cracks are typical in many foundations and most do not represent a structural problem. If major cracks present along with rotation, we routinely recommend further evaluation be made by a qualified professional structural engineer. The grading of the soil should allow for surface and roof water to flow away from the foundation. All concrete slabs experience some degree of cracking due to shrinkage in the drying process or minor settlement.

All items listed are inspected for their proper function, proper installation, excessive wear and general state of repair. Where deck carpeting, stacked firewood, excessive vegetation, soil and other coverings are installed over decking and patio surfaces, the materials or their nature of construction and condition of the underneath these coverings cannot be determined.

All cracks observed should be sealed and observed over time. Keeping water away from the foundation is the first step in keeping a dry basement. Most foundations will show some settlement cracks. Vertical cracks, wider at the top than at the bottom, usually indicate differential settlement Horizontal cracks, located at or near the frost line, indicate hydrostatic pressure caused by expanding wet or freezing soil. This condition is not always a serious problem and can sometimes be corrected by improving outside water control drainage and the slope of soil at the foundation. Horizontal cracks may also have been caused by excess pressure during the backfill operation at time of construction. Major cracks Indicate potentially serious problems that should be examined over a period of months by a structural engineer to determine if the move has stabilized.

When walking around the exterior of the house, take note of the windows and doors: type, style, condition, and age. Although they may look great, and still function well, it may be time to rebuild or install new windows and doors.

Take a close look at the electricity coming into the house. Are the wires frayed (overhead only)? Is everything attached to the house properly, Same holds true with the natural gas meter or propane tank. Check any receptacles on the outside and verify if GFCI’s or not.

Water spigots? Do they work? What is the water pressure like? This is also an area to take note of.

While there are several items to look for while inspecting the exterior and structure of a home, these are a few of the major areas you can take a look at when first viewing a home.

Next look at the grade of the grounds. Ideally, all of the grounds should angle away from the house to force water from entering the home. In many locations, you can’t help not to get water under the house due to the land in the area. But do what you can in order to help the house by moving as much water away from the house as you can. Drainage with pipes buried slightly below the ground can make a big difference in directing water away.

Grade and Wet Soil: One of the most common causes of wet basements, crawlspaces and slabs is incorrect grading. The ground around the foundation should slope away from the house. A drop of six inches over six feet is recommended as a minimum. Patios that slope toward the foundation create serious water penetration problems. Incorrect grades that channel water toward the house are a major cause of structural damage. The soil can become so wet that its load-bearing ability is reduced. During freezing weather, water in the soil expands as It freezes and can crack or heave foundations. The importance of good drainage, and / or grades that slope away from the foundation, cannot be emphasized too strongly.

Site, Grounds, Grading
Gutters and Drainage
Exterior of home
Structure
Roof system
Chimney
Garage or carport
Attic
Basement or Cellar, Crawlspace and/or Slab
Electrical
Plumbing
Heating and Cooling system
The Interior condition
Kitchen
Laundry
Bathroom(s)

We’ll discuss each area by itself in upcoming posts for you to see and understand what is covered and looked at to make sure that your home will provide you with years of satisfaction.

A home inspection is not “Rocket Science,” as anyone can look at a house and notice things that they like and things that may be wrong. But a home inspector has the experience to look and notice the details, and be able to discuss with you the pros and cons. Now is the time when having a home inspection to ask those questions that you have about the house. It’s even a great time to discuss with the home inspector what future plans you may have with the home, and get input on the feasibility on what you want to do.

My name is Tom Farrell and I am the principal partner of Farrell Home Inspections, a Ithaca, NY Home Inspection service. I have been officially conducting Home Inspections since 2004. Prior to 2004, I worked for over 23 years for New York State Electric and Gas as a Residential and Commercial Energy Auditor, as well, as a consultant for Residential and Commercial building projects for NYSEG. I was on the first committee to develop the NY-Star Energy Home Program, which later became part of the national Energy Star Program.

• 23 years with NYSEG- New York State Electric & Gas

• Residential and Commercial Energy Consultant

• On committee to develop the NY-Star Energy Home Program- Now part of the National Energy Star Program

• Recognized consultant in Energy Conservation, Insulation Practices, Heat Conservation

• Contractor panel member of General Electrics’ field research team and lighting technology team.

• New York State License: 16000012629

I have also held  numerous workshops and seminars around the state on Energy Conservation, Insulation Practices, Heating Systems, Heat Loss Programs and Electrical and Natural Gas Practices.

Over the past 30 years I have conducted:

• 3000 Home and Commercial Technical Inspections.

• 500 Commercial Energy Audit Inspections.

• 5000 Home Energy Audit Inspections

My main focus over the past 6 years has been in the home remodeling business, where I have concentrated on the rehabbing older homes in the Tompkins County area for customers. Over the past 40 years, he has built over 10 homes, 15 additions, 15 decks and has remodeled baths, kitchens, decks, and updated electrical, plumbing and heating systems that number in the hundreds for each.

Not only do I know Home Inspections, but I know how homes operate and how to maintain them. Knowing how a home operates takes in account each individual system of a house. A home is very similar to a human body in that while each bodily function operates on its own, each system must be working with its full potential or other systems in the body have potential to fail.

It is not enough to simply tell you that your insulation may fail inspection, but all other systems pass. You as a prospective buyer should know how the failed insulation will effect your homes other system 1,3, 5 or even 10 years down the line. That is the true value of a home inspector who has specialized knowledge in multiple areas and focuses on the home as an operating system and not a set of separate components.

Home Inspections are quite technical, but because my main focus everyday is building and construction, it allows me to offer you, the buyer, a better sense of exactly what you are facing after purchase, how it can be remedied, and if it fits with your goals and dreams for the home. If you are looking for a Ithaca, NY Home Inspector, please give me a call and discuss how I can help you with your goals.

]]> http://www.farrellhomeinspections.com/about-farrell-home-inspections/feed/ 0 http://www.farrellhomeinspections.com/citiestowns-served/ http://www.farrellhomeinspections.com/citiestowns-served/#comments Sun, 07 Jun 2009 14:47:08 +0000 Tom http://www.farrellhomeinspections.com/?p=21 Farrell Home Inspections does home inspections and related services such as pre-sell inspections, home energy audits, radon testing, lead paint inspections, home maintenance reports and partial inspections in Tompkins County and surrounding areas.

Areas we service:

• Brooktondale
• Caroline
• Cayuga Heights
• Danby
• Dryden
• Enfield
• Etna
• Freeville
• Groton
• Ithaca
• Lansing
• Locke
• McLean
• Newfield
• Slaterville Springs
• Trumansburg
• Ulysses

If you live outside these areas I am most always able to accomodate your needs as well.

Please call me, Tom Farrell at 607-351-9607 to discuss your needs. Thank You.